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Hände kneten Teig auf einer Holzoberfläche.
Chris Weittenhiller

von Chris Weittenhiller

06 December 2019

REGIONS-ORIGINALE

Reither Bread: Tradition to Bite Into

When the alarm goes off at five o'clock in the morning, I reluctantly crawl out of bed and yawn at the toothbrush. Actually, I am a passionate late riser, but the daily work of the Tyrolean traditional bakers begins long before the first light of dawn. Today, an experienced family-run business has invited me to learn some secrets of this ancient craft.

Traditional Bakery Hueber

Heavy fog still hangs over the Inn Valley, while in Reith near Seefeld, the first rays of sunshine are already kissing the alpine peaks. The morning air tastes icy cold, filled with the scent of fresh baked goods that streams from the old Reither bakery. Master baker Rudi Hueber dusts off the flour from his apron before greeting me with a hearty handshake.

baecker-vom-reither-brot-reith

Baker from Reither Bread

With a broad grin, he introduces his colleagues, all young men with suspiciously good moods. You get used to everything, even the early morning routine, the bakers laugh. A hard craft that is rewarded with very special moments, the master smiles towards the sunrise. He leads names and family businesses today in the third generation – so Rudi Hueber the Third, so to speak. On May 1, 1928, Grandfather Rudi Hueber put his first Farmer's bread into the wood oven here – in a few years, the traditional business will turn a hundred years old. Back then, the small bakery also had a typical grocery store, today the Hueber family is once again fully dedicated to the baking tradition: Back to the roots, entirely without chemical compromises. Instead, craftsmanship with heart, honest and genuine, emphasizes the young baker. The bakery smells of nuts, fruits, and sweet honey, as today Tyrolean Zelten are being baked.

Fruit bread in a sleeping bag
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zubereitung-vom-stollen-beim-reither-brot-in-reith-1
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The Zelten is a traditional fruit bread wrapped in yeast dough – rich, delicious, and long-lasting. A winter classic in the Alpine region, its origins can be found in medieval customs. To this day, the tradition of “Anklöpfeln” is maintained in rural Tyrolean communities. An ancient fertility custom where men disguised as shepherds sing and recite poems (in dialect) to beg for alms. They are gifted donations and the nourishing fruit bread in a dressing gown. Around Christmas, the Zelten is then sliced and distributed by the head of the household, as the bakers explain their delicious baked goods. Meanwhile, all sorts of utensils are being presented before my eyes, fine yeast dough pieces and the mysterious filling of the Zelten. For bread and dough, brine is used instead of salt, I am informed. An important detail, as the brine is unrefined and original, richer in flavor and contains 84 essential minerals and trace elements. The enthusiasm of the bakers is contagious, and I secretly take notes.

Craftsmanship with Heart

Then everything happens very fast, because with the professionals, every move is precise. The fine filling was prepared the day before – made from handpicked nuts, marinated dried fruits, cinnamon, cloves, vanilla, honey, and other delicious secrets. The sweet temptation is then portioned, shaped, brushed with water (which holds the shell and filling together), and then enveloped in fluffy soft yeast dough. In the Reith bakery of the Hueber family, there are no conveniences, only true craftsmanship, reveals the master baker. The characteristic "Zelten" pattern is then applied not individually, but with a curious little hand roller. Finally, the "Zelten" are decorated with fine almond flakes and candied cherries, and then it's off to the oven. Just moments later, the unmistakable scent of sweet Christmas baking fills the old bakery.

(Anyone who wants to try making this traditional holiday dish for themselves can find an old Tyrolean recipe here.)

Seven Sweet Sins
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Zwei lächelnde Personen stehen vor einem Café mit einer Backwaren-Auslage im Hintergrund.
Ein modernes Café mit minimalistischer Einrichtung und Pflanzen an der Wand.

There are a total of six Reither Brot branches in Tyrol, the last and most beautiful one recently opened in the village square of Reith – the flagship store, so to speak. Here I meet mother and father Hueber, as the early work of the young bakers ends already around midday. Rudi and Angelika greet me as warmly as the guys in the bakery, and it quickly becomes clear where their enthusiasm for the profession comes from. They lovingly guide me through tempting breads and baked goods, made with homemade sourdough according to Grandpa Rudi's original recipes. Love without any frills, emphasizes the father, delivered fresh from the oven to the sales branches every day. Everything is baked fresh and exclusively here in Reith – quality from the first hand, for three generations.

Zwei lächelnde Personen stehen vor einem Café mit einer Backwaren-Auslage im Hintergrund.

After a hearty bakery breakfast, my mother Angelika takes me once again into the baking room. As is well known, grandma bakes the best Christmas cookies, says the grandmother with a grin while sorting boxes of cookies. From tomorrow in the branches in Reith, Seefeld, and Scharnitz available, but I get to try them today. And I wish once again that perhaps I had become a baker back then.

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Tourismusverband Seefeld | Austria +43 5 0880 | region@seefeld.com | www.seefeld.com