Hen, Bunny & Yeast Dough: The Leutasch Easter Breakfast

In Leutasch (known as "Luitasch" among locals), many customs and traditions can still be found that shape the lives of the valley's inhabitants and reflect their culture and history. Especially during Easter, many of these traditions become particularly visible and vibrant: The fasting period before Easter begins with the communal consumption of simple fasting soups on Ash Wednesday. Another notable Easter custom is marked by Palm Sunday, when village children, after the blessing in St. Magdalena's parish church, carry their elaborately decorated palm bouquets from door to door, and for a small donation, people can cut off a piece of the holy bouquet. This tradition originates in the biblical account of Jesus, who was welcomed by the people in Jerusalem with palm branches. However, the highlight of the celebrations is undoubtedly the traditional Easter Sunday breakfast – where finally, the rabbit and hen take the spotlight.

At Easter, it has been a tradition in Leutasch for many generations that Geti and Goti (godfather and godmother) gift their protégés with a special Easter braid for the whole family: a hare for the boys and a hen for the girls – that's how the custom goes. In the past, I also received such a yeast dough hare for Easter, but today I have long been one of those "Luitascher Geti" myself. And so, I find myself on Good Friday evening at the Pichler Bakery for what is probably the longest baking night of the year, as the approximately 200 pre-ordered Easter gifts are created in addition to the other weekend baked goods of the bakery. This time, however, I am even allowed to bake the traditional Easter hen myself there. As the people of Luitasch are already sitting in their cozy rooms, master baker Romed Pichler personally opens the heavy swinging door for me, dusts off the flour from his apron, and extends a heavy white hand: Yes, hello, you’ve arrived just in time, we are already in the midst of it!

Exactly twelve hours later, it's done, it's Saturday. My arms are heavy and my eyes are as small as the raisin eyes of the golden shining hens and rabbits. Still, the feeling is something special, stepping out of the bakery into the sunrise, where the fresh spring air mingles with the scent of baked goods. The delivery van will soon crunch through the gravel driveway, and soon Grandma will unlock the bakery counter. Today, I am still the very first one in the vast Leutascher high valley to receive the large Pichler paper bag with its freshly baked Gotlhenne – it really can't get any fresher than this. The masterpiece weighs a good kilo, light enough for an Easter breakfast for up to eight people. By the way, the hare and hen are eaten sweet, only with Leutascher Bauernbutter. And if there happens to be some of the traditional "Luitascher Osterzopf" left over, it's still delicious when dipped in warm milk or breakfast coffee for a second time.

Many of today's Easter customs combine Christian traditions and pagan practices: a festival in honor of the Babylonian goddess of fertility Ishtar, the hare as the companion animal of the Germanic spring goddess Ostara, pagan sun fires at the beginning of spring, or the Jewish Passover, which commemorates the liberation of the people of Israel. However, the tradition of sweet Easter hens and hares exists only in the Leutasch valley of Tyrol's high plateau – perhaps also because the bakery Pichler only delivers the many orders (possible until Good Friday) within the municipality. Thus, some even make the journey from Seefeld, Scharnitz, or even Bavaria, to enjoy this special Easter custom. Depending on size and weight, one can get a real specimen for 5 to 15 euros – those who cannot decide on an animal or have no godchildren simply get a baked Easter pretzel instead. In any case, one should not miss the opportunity – otherwise, one must wait a whole year until the Easter bunny comes again.